Spring Summer 2025 Pre-collection: Pleated Paper Viscose
Discover the artistry of sunray pleating, a technique used on paper viscose in the McQueen Spring Summer 2025 Pre-collection.
Heat Set ‘sunray’ Pleating
To create dramatic and long-lasting pleated garments, a technical process is applied to cut pieces of paper viscose fabric.
Developed in London, the ‘sunray’ pleat used in this collection is formed using two large, card moulds in a semi-circular shape. This pleat style creates an illusion where the pleats become larger towards the edge of the fabric, therefore adding contrast and dimension.
To begin the process, fabric is layered in between the moulds and delicately pressed by hand into the fold lines. Once correctly placed, each fold line is gathered. The mould is secured tightly at both ends and placed in a steam cabinet.
After the heating cycle is complete and the card has cooled, the fabric can be removed — revealing crisp sunray pleated paper viscose fabric.
A new fabric development for the house, viscose is twisted with paper yarn. The resulting fabric has a fresh, crisp feel and has an optimal composition to hold pleating. This delicate and artisanal fabric can be found in layered shirts, skirts and dresses as part of the McQueen Spring Summer 2025 Pre-collection.
