McQueen Autumn Winter 2025 Pre-Collection: Deconstructed Tailoring
An exploration of traditional tailoring techniques woven throughout the house’s Savile Row heritage.
The McQueen Autumn Winter 2025 Pre-collection is grounded in the heritage of London, tracing its counter-culture and tradition of incisive tailoring. Tailoring explores the house’s foundations in the bespoke traditions of London’s Savile Row and Lee Alexander McQueen’s early technical training.
Deconstruction — a tenet of the house's tailoring, driving its early innovations. Inspired by the skilled craftsmanship and rigorous processes behind the construction of a classic McQueen jacket, the Autumn Winter 2025 Pre-collection exposes hidden internal structures and hand-sewn layers. The result is a trompe l’oeil illusion contrasted against jet-black wool mohair and crisp, blue and white striped shirting.
Raw canvas — reinforcing the architecture of the jacket and cut with strips of cotton grosgrain, the canvas is secured with lines of traditional ‘pad stitching’, a precise hand-sewing technique, also applied to the curvature of sharply defined shoulder pads.
Basting stitches and silver studs line cut pattern pieces. The inner workings and savoir-faire of the atelier are revealed, capturing the meticulous attention to detail that forms the foundation of McQueen.
