Alexander McQueen Women's Pre-Spring/Summer 2014

Workwear. 1940s and early Nineties utility. Doillies, bedspreads and tablecloths. Free spirits.

COLLECTION

The collection is clean – reduced, light and crafted in humble fabrics. A reaction to the extreme ornamentation of preceding seasons, it represents youth, vibrancy and a very physical being, innocence more than experience. The silhouette is waisted and predominantly very short. Jackets and dresses have apron necklines, split or cutaway backs and curved, moulded sleeves. Trousers are cropped above the ankle and kick from the knee. Masculine white shirting and boilersuits both feature. The exaggerated, signature McQueen line is achieved using oversized, three-dimensional, pleated patch pockets and layered hems. Silver buckled double belting references the heritage bumster trouser. The structural complexity and dense surface embellishment the house is known for is all present and correct but discreet: apparently simplified, raw edged and graphic in places.

FABRICS

Cotton jacquard, cotton drill, cotton crochet knit, broderie anglaise. Canvas. Suede. Patchworked denim, from stonewashed to faded to raw.

COLOURS

White: optic, cream, ivory, bone. Powder pink and blue. Dark sand. Shades of indigo and accents of spring meadow flowers.

SHOES

A mid-height block- or platform-heeled sandal in neutral suede or python is finished with studded silver metal panels.