WOMEN'S AUTUMN/WINTER 2013

WOMEN'S AUTUMN/WINTER 2013

THE ECCLESIASTICAL WARDROBE, FROM COMMUNION GOWNS TO CARDINALS’ ROBES. THE HIGH CHURCH. NUNS, POPES, ANGELS. BALLETS RUSSES. VIRGIN QUEEN.

The collection comprises ten looks, presented in pairs. The waist is cinched and the hips are exaggerated throughout. Volumes are overblown but lightness is paramount. Hyper-worked embellishment demonstrates an obsessive attention to detail – and detail within detail. Sharp pressing, multiple folds, quintuple and dégradé pleats, soutache embroidery, triple bulleting, silk and metal thread embroideries, enamelled flowers and more all feature. Rhombic grids lend a sense of graphic modernity to surfaces. Pearls and teardrop pearls evoke beauty and rarity. Hoop skirts, caging and corsetry enhance and idealise a quintessentially feminine silhouette and introduce an erotic undercurrent further suggested by stockings, suspender belts and harnessing. Each look is worn with an embellished ruff: faces are framed.