WOMEN'S AUTUMN/WINTER 2003 "SCANNERS"

IN THIS INSTANCE, THE MOST BARREN OF SETS – AN ICE AND RUBBLE-STREWN WASTELAND AS SEEN FROM ABOVE – ONLY SERVES TO EMPHASISE THE OPULENCE AND STRENGTH OF THE CLOTHES.

These mix tradition with modernity – from fourteenth and fifteenth century samurai armour to Manga cartoons – as McQueen’s displaced travellers journey from Siberia over the Russian tundra, through Tibet before finally reaching the land of the rising sun. If the backdrop serves as a reflection of the instability of our times, the clothes are the ultimate modern-day armour. Over-sized hooded fur-trimmed jackets belted tightly at the waist and worn with voluminous skirts, an A-line metal slatted skirt teamed with 1950s cut wool jacket and black bandage dresses finished with gleaming gold zips. High above the audience a model walks through a wind-tunnel in a white embroidered kimono with a huge, billowing train.