MEN'S SPRING/SUMMER 2007 "HARLEM"

THE TITLE OF THIS SHOW REFERS BOTH TO THE UPTOWN NEW YORK NEIGHBOURHOOD BUT ALSO SERVES AS AN ANAGRAM FOR MAHLER WHOSE MUSIC WAS USED FOR LUCHINO VISCONTI’S DEATH IN VENICE BASED ON THE THOMAS MANN STORY OF AN ELDERLY MAN’S OBSESSION WITH A BEAUTIFUL YOUNG BOY.

Presented in the courtyard of the Museo Della Scienza in Milan, models walk through billowing muslin panels sporting a gentlemanly silhouette in both light and luxurious fabrics that fuses Harlem’s dandified chic and the opulence of the aforementioned film. Classic suiting is brought up to date with subtly encrustated Prince Of Wales check and reworked jacquards, moth details appear on silk tie fabrics alongside broderie anglaise detailed cotton silk tailoring. Powder pinks and pale blue whisper of the Amalfi Coast in the 1960s and lightweight microfibre and organza tailoring comes in tea-stained hues. A final section of elaborate tuxedo jackets inspired by the paintings of Gustav Klimt only add to the lightly romantic and luxurious mood.