MEN'S SPRING/SUMMER 2006 "KILLA"

THE 1963 PETER BROOK FILM LORD OF THE FLIES ADAPTED FROM THE ORIGINAL NOVEL BY WILLIAM GOLDING IS THE SOURCE OF INSPIRATION HERE.

The loss of innocence and role of power and hierarchy in society that this tale explores prove endlessly fascinating territory for Alexander McQueen. Shown in a huge warehouse space draped with billowing army green and white parachutes the collection itself is an exercise in deconstruction – the public school boy erodes to become the savage male. Crisp white tailoring in poplin, pique and jersey, an Eton tail coat and double-breasted blazer all relate to the first part of the story, followed by Oxford stripes, ginghams, checks and trousers also cut in men’s shirting fabrics. Gradually a softer, more slouchy silhouette emerges: deconstructed seersucker suits and striped jersey are embroidered with pieces of shell emphasising a journey and a nautical theme. Finally, a Fijian ‘tapa’ prints appears on jersey tops, clothes are patch-worked with more shells and soft drinks cans until the Eton coat reappears now no longer pure and white but in heavy striped, over-dyed linen.