A strict silhouette: square-shouldered tailoring, elongated coats and narrow trousers.
The colour palette is from a John Deakin photograph and his photos of Lucian Freud and Oliver Bernard are printed onto shirts and woven on the back of silk coats. Pleating appears on cropped kilts worn over trousers as well as the back of long coats. Graphic and symmetrical lines feature; patch worked into a grey jacket, printed as geometric patterns on mohair jumpers or woven as gold lines on evening coats. There are a variety of plaids, from oversized checks in tonal greys to woven tartans in white or pink and black. Zips are functional and decorative – fastened on the sides of knitted tops, cutting through coats and jackets or placed as stripes on a kilt. Words from Oliver Bernard’s Peace Poem are embroidered on coats and shirt collars.
“Thanks to the John Deakin Archive and to Victoria and Albert Museum, London for the use of the John Deakin images of Lucian Freud and Oliver Bernard. Special thanks to Bella Freud and Kate Bernard.”