A pinstripe three-piece suit has a signature McQueen pagoda shoulder, with a longer jacket to create a new lengthened silhouette. These are matched with low-rise pinstripe trousers that are cropped with a slight kick flare. A cigar shoulder gives an alternate nipped-in jacket shape. White cotton shirts come with pinstriped collars and cuffs, a motif that is repeated with other fabrics from the collection, all of the shirts coming with a longer collar and barbed wire cufflinks. As the collection evolves, single-breasted suits are patchworked from panels of pinstripe and some suits are cut from a cloth specially woven to look like patchwork. A softer shape comes from a kimono-shouldered camel coat, worn over a camel suit with articulated S-cut trousers.
Military dress is an important part of Savile Row’s history. This ceremonial heritage is represented in red and black paneled frock coats with military buttoning above the waist. Meanwhile a detail of a blown up stained glass church window is used as an all-over suit print, an image which also appears on a long silk dressing-gown. Silk polka dot dressing gowns are worn with velvet tailoring, ushering in the eveningwear section. Velvet tuxedos are cut with a pagoda shoulder, and also come constructed from patchwork panels. Patchworking is taken to its ultimate extent with an intricate multi-patchwork coat constructed to follow the elaborate pattern of a stained glass window made from velvet, satin, grosgrain and jacquards.
Throughout the collection, footwear also plays with British traditions. Brogue and Derby detailing is matched on a leather shoe and cut like a slip-on loafer, whilst a Chelsea boot has been cut short to create a new slip-on shape, with a strap detail at the ankle.
“It feels right to focus on Savile Row for our first ever Alexander McQueen menswear show in London,” says Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, “especially since we opened our menswear store on Savile Row at the end of last year. This collection is full of tailoring traditions and subtle references to English style’’.