MEN'S AUTUMN/WINTER 2005

THIS COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY GANG CULTURE FROM THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY TO THE 1990S AND AS PORTRAYED SPECIFICALLY IN TWO FILMS: MATHIEU KASSOVITZ’S LA HAINE AND PATRICE CHEREAU’S LA REINE MARGOT.

With their hair slicked back West Side Story style and wearing everything from hooded leather jackets liberally embellished with zips or more referencing the terraces – an exploded football motif – not to mention bandanas and wide-legged low-slung trousers this rings out loud and clear. More surprising though is the sheer luxe factor of the collection – gilt overlay, fur trim and immaculate tailoring with a silver-grey sheen all point to only the most upscale of hardmen. Again fluidity of gender is all present and correct: a tulle vest encrusted with jet is worn with loose leather trousers, a toile de jouy shirt with a trench coat and more.