With their hair slicked back West Side Story style and wearing everything from hooded leather jackets liberally embellished with zips or more referencing the terraces – an exploded football motif – not to mention bandanas and wide-legged low-slung trousers this rings out loud and clear. More surprising though is the sheer luxe factor of the collection – gilt overlay, fur trim and immaculate tailoring with a silver-grey sheen all point to only the most upscale of hardmen. Again fluidity of gender is all present and correct: a tulle vest encrusted with jet is worn with loose leather trousers, a toile de jouy shirt with a trench coat and more.
MEN'S AUTUMN/WINTER 2005
THIS COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY GANG CULTURE FROM THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY TO THE 1990S AND AS PORTRAYED SPECIFICALLY IN TWO FILMS: MATHIEU KASSOVITZ’S LA HAINE AND PATRICE CHEREAU’S LA REINE MARGOT.